Commercial refrigerator not cooling: first checks

Protect the products first

Measure the inside temperature with a thermometer. If the products have gone above their storage temperature, move them to another refrigerator that is working. Do not keep opening the door to check; every opening lets the cold out.

Note how long the products have been at the higher temperature; that is the information you need for your food safety decision.

Has the thermostat setting changed?

During cleaning or loading, the thermostat knob or digital setpoint can be changed by accident. Compare the setpoint on the display with the inside temperature reading. If the setting is right but the inside temperature is different, there may be a problem with the sensor or the controls.

Does the door close fully, and is the gasket intact?

A torn, hardened or dislodged gasket lets warm air in all the time. The unit runs non-stop and the evaporator ices up.

A simple test: close the door on a sheet of paper and pull it out. If the paper slides out without resistance, the gasket is not sealing at that point. The door may also have dropped because of heavy loads or worn hinges.

Are the air inlets and outlets clear?

A refrigerator releases the heat it takes from inside into the kitchen air through the condenser. If the front, back or underside of the unit is blocked by boxes, cloths or a wall, the heat cannot get out.

Inside, too, do not block the fan and air ducts with products; cold air needs to circulate between the shelves.

Is the condenser dusty or greasy?

Dust and grease vapour in the kitchen air stick to the condenser fins. A dirty condenser cannot release heat, so the compressor runs longer and hotter. This is one of the common causes of poor cooling.

If the condenser is accessible, unplug the unit and remove the dust with a soft brush without bending the fins. Greasy, deep-seated dirt should be cleaned at a service visit.

Is the evaporator covered in ice?

If the cooling surface inside the compartment (the evaporator, usually on the back panel or behind the fan) is covered in thick ice, air cannot circulate and cooling drops. This usually means the defrost system is not working or humid air is constantly getting in through the door.

Do not try to break the ice with a knife or a pointed tool; if the evaporator is punctured, refrigerant escapes. You can switch the unit off and let the ice melt on its own, and call for service to find the cause.

Is the kitchen too hot?

In the summer months and next to heat sources such as ranges and ovens, the room temperature rises a lot. The rating plate or manual shows the climate class, which indicates the room temperature the unit is designed for. If the room is above that value, the unit may not be able to reach its target temperature.

Which symptoms need a service visit?

• The compressor does not run at all, clicks and stops, or trips the circuit breaker.
• The compressor runs but the inside does not cool (possibly a refrigerant leak, compressor or fan fault).
• The evaporator keeps icing up.
• Oil stains appear on pipe joints (this can be a sign of a refrigerant leak).
• Water keeps collecting under the unit.

Will a refrigerant recharge solve the problem?

Refrigerant does not run low on its own; if it has dropped, there is a leak somewhere. Recharging without finding and fixing the leak only postpones the problem for a while. What is more, poor cooling is not always caused by refrigerant: a dirty condenser, a fan, the thermostat or the compressor give the same symptom. The cause has to be found by measurement first.

Have this ready when you call

• The unit’s brand, model and serial number (a photo of the rating plate).
• The inside temperature you measured and the setpoint.
• When the problem started; whether the compressor is running.
• A photo of the error code, if there is one on the display.